Friday, March 13, 2015

Things to do in Stockholm

ccc36comStockholm is for walkers. It’s also safe (except for thepick-pockets near Sergel Torg and T-Centralen). Don’t be afraid to take the subways. Note: the subways are labeled by the last stop on their journey. You use the maps to figure out which line to take then just follow the signs. You can get 3 day passes in many places.

  • A first day in the city: Visit GamlaStan. There’s a restaurant there I really like called Kryp In. They usually have reindeer. Have coffee in Stortorget.That’s where the Danes beheaded a lot of Swedish nobles back a few hundredyears ago. A good tour of Gamla Stan will take several hours. Then walk along Strandv?gen. Dinner and/or drinks at the floating restaurant called Strandbryggan.You should also walk around Kungstr?dg?rden. There are a lot of shops and outdoor restaurants there. Buy some famous Kosta Boda or Orrefors crystal at NK. Very nearby, you can take a sightseeingboat. If you’re not walked out, walk on over to the island called Skeppsholmen. There’s a nice walk along the water.
  • A walking/subway day a little off the beaten path. Get yourself to Slussen. Walk up hill on a street called Katarinv?gen to a street called Fj?llgatan. Hike to the top of Fj?llgatan. There are some nice views all along the way. There’s a little plaza at the top with great views and a nice ice cream place. There’s also a fantastic vegetarian restaurant called Herman’s on Fj?llgatan. Walk back and then take the elevator up Gondolen (you can eat in the Gondolenrestaurant if you like – it’s an iconic but expensive place). Take the walkway from Gondolen over to the island called S?dermalm. Find your way to MosebackeTorg. Have a beer at the outdoor restaurant there called Mosebacke Terassen. The statue of the two women is a sad and true story about lesbians that committed suicide. If you feel like more walking, find a subway and go to Hornstull. Then walk any direction to the water. One of my favorites is a walk on the islands of L?ngholmen and Reimersholme. There are lots of nooks and crannies to see on boat islands. You call also walk across the famous V?sterbron bridge (great views) and get to the island of Kungsholmen. There you can eat the Kafé Kajak or go the local park called R?lambshovsparken. From there you can walk along the water of catch the subway at Fridemsplan.
  • A six mile walk for the ambitious. Start at Slussen. Walk along S?der M?larstrand taking the time to climb up to the top of the rocks in Skinnarviksparken. Cross over the V?sterbron, and return via Norr M?larstrand. One of my favorite restaurants is on Norr M?larstrand. It’s called M?larpaviljongen.
  • A day inland. Go visit Stadshuset, where the Nobel Prize dinner is held, then take a ferry over to DrottningholmPalace. The boats are less than 50 yards away. The boat ride is very pleasant – most of them serve pastries, coffee, and beers. Some serve more. Tour the palace. Return.
  • A day to Mariefred by boat, then return by train. Tour the castle in Mariefred. Returning by train may be a tiny bit tricky. They have a small gauge train that runs sometimes. It'll take you to the “big” train station (Pendelt?g). You then take it back to Stockholm. If the small gauge train is not running then you either take a taxi to the big train station or return by boat – the same way you came.
  • Museum day: Visit the VasaMuseum, a must see. Awesome museum. There are several others aroundincluding the outdoor Swedish heritage museum called Skansen on the island of Djurg?rden.
  • Archipelago Day: A visit to the Stockholm archipelago is a must. You’ll see real Swedish life. I suggest one or more of theseoptions:
    • A short (20 minutes) ferry from Slussen to Fladjerhomnarna. There are several nice restaurants on this island and a small but interesting museum. If you eat at the little café (the least expensive option) you can sit there watching the boats come and go while you eat. The salmon sandwiches are great. This outing would take a few hours. So you could return back into the city for more “walking around.” Maybe visit T-Centralen and Sergel Torg – iconic places in Stockholm.
    • Grinda. The ferry ride is about two hours. Here you walk about a mile to one of two restaurants. I recommend the one on the water with the large outdoor patio. This is a favorite island by many. There’s some nice short walks all over.
    • Finnhamm. The ferry ride is about 2.5 hours. There’s a wonderful little restaurant right near where the ferry lets you off. You can walk the roads on the island – there are many boats. There’s also a hostel with very good views. I’d buy a bottle of wine in Stockholm and drink it up on the rocks at the back of the hostel.
    • Sandhamn. The ferry ride is about 3 hours. However, there are some beautiful islands all along the way. Sandhamn is the most famous island and has a nice marina and several nice restaurants.
    • If you’re really adventurous, I recommend the island of Uto, N?tturo, and ?ja. If you’re interested I can tell you how to get there. These would be longer days – get up early, take a train, then a ferry, and there’s a fair amount of walking.
  • A day seeing the countryside. You can also take a train to either one of several nearby cities that give you a better flavor of Swedish life (away from touristy Stockholm). My favorites are:
    • Gnesta. Not much to do here except to walk over the classic church and the place where part of the movie “Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” was filmed. There’s a nice little restaurant right out of the train station which is good. Then just go back to Stockholm.
    • Nyn?shamn. There’s a wonderful little market right outside the train stop. I recommend getting some smoked salmon at the Nyn?s R?keri & Fiskhall.
    • Motala. This is a long train ride but you see a lot of countryside. There’s not much time – get off the train, eat, and get back on the train. It’s possible you’d have enough time to visit the famous locks on the G?ta canal and watch them pass boats through, especially if you hire a taxi.
    • Saltsjobaden. There several cute places to eat here. The wealthy Swedes have summer homes here. Walk around the marina, too. It’s a cute old train that gets you there. Most people have trouble find where to get on it. It’s actually outside the Slussen station. There are signs, just look for them.
    • Gustavsberg. Take a bus. It's a rather scenic ride. Go to the porcelain factory. Eat at a cafe near the water. Return to Stockholm.
  • Favorite Restaurants:
    • Kryp In (mentioned above).
    • M?larpaviljongen(mentioned above, have drinks on the water.)
    • RawSushi & Grill
    • ?stermalms Saluhall. Interesting place. There are several places to eat here but the most famous is LisaElmqvist.
    • The Riche. Iconic place but average food.
    • Tranen (traditional Swedish food).
    • M?lardrottningen (on a big boat. Ambiance is great especially in the evening. A bit pricey.
    • Flyt(a floating restaurant. Light food, drinks.)
    • Solstugan(a bit tricky to get to).
    • Kungsholmen. A little expensive.
    • Bersa & Boule. A real Swedish treat but a bit tough to get to. A taxi might be best.
    • RestaurangJ. Take a ferry to this restaurant. “Restaurang” is Swedish for restaurant.
    • Lasse i Parken. Take the subway to Hornstull and walk.
    • La Casa. Take the subway to Hornstull and walk.
    • Frapino. Take the subway to Hornstull and walk.
    • Restaurang Loopen. Take the subway to Hornstull and walk.
    • RestaurangAkkurat. Get the barrel of mussels. They are also famous for beers and whiskey’s.
    • Restaurang Dalanisse. Traditional Swedish food.
    • Pizzeria Vedugnen in Alvik. Quaint little place that has amazing pizza and Swedish “salad,” which is really shredded cabbage, vinegar, olive oil, and black pepper. Take the subway to Alvik then walk.
    • Hermans Vegetariska Restaurang (mentioned above). If you get there at the right time, you can get a table with a view.
    • Mosebacke Terassen (mentioned above).
    • Gondolen. (Mentioned above). Nice views. Touristy.
    • Breakfast at the Grand Hotel. Try to get window seats so you can watch the ferries come and go.
    • The Ice Bar. This is near the terminal for the Arlanda Express (the fast train to the airport). The walls, chairs, the bar, and the glasses are all made of ice. It's below freezing inside so they provide a warm coat, gloves, and a hat. It's a bit pricey and your time inside is limited. It very much a tourist thing but worth doing once.

Friday, November 4, 2011

NOLS WMI Class in Sweden

Kayaking in the Stockholm archipelago is one of the best weekend activities in the summer....

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Archipelago Sampler

Life is sometimes clearArchipelago SkyBoardwalkScandinavian beachWide open feelingNOLS WMI Class in Sweden
So ArchipelagoSo archipelago.SunkenEnd of the day for the ferriesLearning about the "big water"Sleeping boats
Light of the night...Let summer comeInto the windSightseeing + exercise + orienteering = kayakingCruising in StyleDreary morning at ?rsta Pier
Orn? SceneLandsort ShotSea LevelLandsort HarborSpeed ThrillsMe in my underwear

Archipelago Sampler, a set on Flickr.

Here is a nice collection of photos I took in the Stockholm archipelago. I think they are very representative of the archipelago, at least in the summer months.